Sunday 3 February 2013

Interfacing, interlining and fusible fleece (making it up as I go)

I've shared quite a few pictures through my blog posts for Handmade Monday, so this time I though I'd try and share some of the things I've learned since I started making bags. I've picked up a lot of tips from other folks along the way and learnt by making many, many mistakes - I'm on my 6th stitch unpicking tool!

One of my steepest learning curves has been the labyrinth that is interfacing/interlining/fusible fleece, and from a number of comments on my Facebook page it seems i'm not the only one who found (and still finds!) this all rather confusing. So I thought I'd share my thoughts on the issue and some tips on how I make my bags.

I've always preferred making more structured bags, like these messenger bags.
 My first bags were a bit saggy...
 So I've spent many hours trialling different techniques and combinations. Here are just a few of my thoughts...

I use two basic materials. Iron-on interfacing of the kind you can buy pretty cheaply in almost any haberdashery and fusible fleece.

I try and keep a range of interfacings in stock, of three different stiffnesses (is that a real word!?) - but I long ago stopped worrying about whether it was woven or not (I still have no idea of the difference). Just as long as it is iron-on - sew in interfacing just doesn't do the same job.

Fusible fleece is not so easily come by - especially in the UK - and is much more expensive. But there really is no substitute and it's a key area not to scrimp on in my opinion. It comes in two thicknesses - the thinnest version is best for most bags I find, otherwise it looks a bit too 'quilty' and bulky.


And that's it - I use those two combined in almost all my structured bags, with the occasional addition of something like peltex (which is a super firm interfacing used to make pelmets - but makes for a good sturdy bag bottom!).
Even these cosmetic bags use the same layering technique


I try and build up the structure of the bag in layers. First I use a lightweight interfacing (iron-on of course!) and then a layer of fusible fleece (I skip the interfacing if i'm using a heavyweight, upholstery type fabric).
(oh, and I don't worry too much about how neat the cutting out is, as you can see - just make sure there isn't too much bulk in your seam area).

I then add a layer of firmer interfacing to any areas where I want a more rigid structure - like the bottom, gussett, sides or part of the flap for a messenger bag. Different combinations give a different feel. And I add interfacing as I go if I think it needs more structure.

The interfacing keeps it flat and even, and the fleece helps to soften, so you end up with something like this....
The exceptions to my layering is when making bags with pleats or gathers. The pleats give the bag structure anyhow and it's important to keep a soft feel. So I either use light interfacing or fleece only, depending upon the weight of the fabric.
The finished messenger bag - firm but soft!
I could go on (and on, and on!) about interfacings, but i'm guessing I may have bored you to death by now anyhow! So why not drop by and see what the other handmade Monday folk have been up to and maybe next week i'll share my pearls of wisdom on making (or trying to make) the perfect bag strap! Bet you can't wait...... :-)

Oh, and if you have any tips on interfacing then please leave a comment below. I'd love to hear your tips too.







30 comments:

  1. hey! *i* found that interesting!

    i think that was one of the reasons i was drawn to your bags when i was looking for someone to make me one - the firmness & structure give them a much more professional look and feel. i love that it keeps its shape no matter how much stuff i have crammed in there, and it doesnt sag and gape when it's empty.

    my thoughts on interfacing: ironing it with wrong side up is the worst, no?
    i'm on my 4th iron :)

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    1. 4th iron - that's impressive. I'm on the second and third. We're s'posed to have two so i keep one for sticky ironing and hubby has a clean one for shirts. Can never be bothered to swap them over though - he'll never notice...will he???? Shhhhh

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  2. Love this post, Helen! It's a great help to bag makers. I always find it difficult to recommend interfacing in bag patterns, because of different fabric choices sewers might make - I want to cover all the bases. I am loving byAnnies Soft and Stable, is it available there yet?? I am going to try your 3 layer method too! Janelle

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    1. Aw, thanks Janelle. That's a huuuuge compliment - i#m in awe of your bag pattern skills! Not heard of Annie Soft & Stable - it's hard enough getting hold of H630 (i've just ordered a bulk load from the US 'cos it's soo expensive here). I'll keep an eye out for it though and do a bit of a google search later

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  3. No - not bored, as you say it really is so important.
    I think all of us who make bags learn that you may not be able to see it, but it improves bags no end, bit like foundations for a house!
    I'm not a big user of fusible fleece, partly because I have had a decent supply of interlining from curtain making which does a good job as it has structure as well as softness, but am wondering whether to move over to it when the interlining runs out.

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  4. Certainly not boring, but a great help to bag-makers. What a difference it makes to the structure. Hope you have a good week.

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  5. Great blog post Helen, and you're right it is such a minefield, can I ask if you use 630 or 640 fusible volume fleece? As I might be able to help you out x

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  6. Wow really interesting post. Thanks for passing on your knowledge. The cat fabric is lovely.
    Ali x

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  7. Not boring, but even with great explanations like yours I'm still totally confused! It's a real dark art if you ask me - my bags are all floppy!! But it does make me admire your gorgeous creations all the more :-) Simmi x

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  8. I have no idea about bag making, and am pretty hopeless at proper sewing, but I found this very interesting! Thank you for sharing your knowledge, and I definitely think your bags look very professional- it's nice to learn about the work that goes into making them that way!

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  9. I thought you were an expert! (well you are but I never dreamed that you learnt as you went along). I had no idea about the complexities of interfacing - maybe you should write a book? I love your bags (good job the unpikers are not too expensive!!) Have a good week :)

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    1. Ahm that's nice thank you. I hope i haven't shattered the illusions of any potential customers!

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  10. I used to make bags and used 4 different types of stiffening fabrics in each. Burned out my Brother sewing machine in the process! I used to use a very stiff non-iron on interfacing for the bottom and front/back. Difficult to use, but worth it - apart from buying a new sewing machine!

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  11. good post, not boring
    Josie

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  12. Yes I think you should write a book or article, the bags I make are of the floppy tote type, but your messenger bags and cosmetic bags look great. I must admit to losing a few ironing board covers!
    Wendy x

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  13. What an interesting post. I seem to have lost my way from my intention to make bags, but am going to bookmark this page for if I get back to it.

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  14. wow! one can tell straighaway you know your stuff very well!
    it's a complete mystery to me what you write about linings, sewing, stitching and making bags but I can definitely say: your bags are great! :)

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  15. amazingly informative post, thank you!! I will be bookmarking your words of wisdom for future reference :) x

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  16. Ever felt really stupid? Well that's me!
    Thought you meant you were opening a new blog site just on interfacing! No wonder I thought you were very brave.
    really enjoyed reading your post and how you have developed your bag making over time

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    1. It's probably me not explaining very well! Glad you stopped by and found it interesting

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  17. Thanks for the info Helen , its always interesting to hear how other people use their materials. The last time I bought fusible fleece the lady in the shop told me that she thought it was going out of production - aggghh!! What will we do ??!! I've been following you on FB & your having a super productive year girlie! S x

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    1. Arrgh indeed. I do hope that's not the case - fingers crossed!

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  18. Hi Helen, very interesting post :) I have just started selling fusible fleece - Vilene 640 - in various increments in the UK. I obviously don't want to hijack your blog to advertise (!) but if you are interested please feel free to contact me and I will pass on my online shop details.

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    1. Oo, yes please. I tend to use 630 most but 640 would be fine too for some items. If you could drop me a line to info@handbagsbyhelen.co.uk that would be fab

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    2. I'd be happy to :)

      If anyone else would like details please feel free to contact me at crimsoncuttlefish@gmail.com and I will get back to you. :)

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  19. Very interesting post. Gives quite a bit of insight into the world of bag making.

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  20. I like the iron on but only for bit's of appliqué, I'll leave the professional looking bags to someone who knows what they're doing :)

    I keep a separate iron for when I do my bit's and bobs, it's a little travel iron and great for small areas.

    Jan x

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  21. Really informative post - I have only used interfacing on bags so far as they are all lightweight summer bags but the fusible fleece structure is interesting. Will have to investigate further!

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  22. Thanks for this post, I am also struggling a bit with these questions. Like you I prefer ironing interfacing but I'm still juggling with thicknesses. I didn't no much about fusible fleece, very interesting views.

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