Interfacing, interlining and fusible fleece (making it up as I go)

I've shared quite a few pictures through my blog posts for Handmade Monday, so this time I though I'd try and share some of the things I've learned since I started making bags. I've picked up a lot of tips from other folks along the way and learnt by making many, many mistakes - I'm on my 6th stitch unpicking tool!

One of my steepest learning curves has been the labyrinth that is interfacing/interlining/fusible fleece, and from a number of comments on my Facebook page it seems i'm not the only one who found (and still finds!) this all rather confusing. So I thought I'd share my thoughts on the issue and some tips on how I make my bags.

I've always preferred making more structured bags, like these messenger bags.

 My first bags were a bit saggy...

 So I've spent many hours trialling different techniques and combinations. Here are just a few of my thoughts...

I use two basic materials. Iron-on interfacing of the kind you can buy pretty cheaply in almost any haberdashery and fusible fleece.

I try and keep a range of interfacings in stock, of three different stiffnesses (is that a real word!?) - but I long ago stopped worrying about whether it was woven or not (I still have no idea of the difference). Just as long as it is iron-on - sew in interfacing just doesn't do the same job.

Fusible fleece is not so easily come by - especially in the UK - and is much more expensive. But there really is no substitute and it's a key area not to scrimp on in my opinion. It comes in two thicknesses - the thinnest version is best for most bags I find, otherwise it looks a bit too 'quilty' and bulky.

And that's it - I use those two combined in almost all my structured bags, with the occasional addition of something like peltex (which is a super firm interfacing used to make pelmets - but makes for a good sturdy bag bottom!).

Even these cosmetic bags use the same layering technique

I try and build up the structure of the bag in layers. First I use a lightweight interfacing (iron-on of course!) and then a layer of fusible fleece (I skip the interfacing if i'm using a heavyweight, upholstery type fabric).

(oh, and I don't worry too much about how neat the cutting out is, as you can see - just make sure there isn't too much bulk in your seam area).

I then add a layer of firmer interfacing to any areas where I want a more rigid structure - like the bottom, gussett, sides or part of the flap for a messenger bag. Different combinations give a different feel. And I add interfacing as I go if I think it needs more structure.

The interfacing keeps it flat and even, and the fleece helps to soften, so you end up with something like this....

The exceptions to my layering is when making bags with pleats or gathers. The pleats give the bag structure anyhow and it's important to keep a soft feel. So I either use light interfacing or fleece only, depending upon the weight of the fabric.

The finished messenger bag - firm but soft!

I could go on (and on, and on!) about interfacings, but i'm guessing I may have bored you to death by now anyhow! So why not drop by and see what the other handmade Monday folk have been up to and maybe next week i'll share my pearls of wisdom on making (or trying to make) the perfect bag strap! Bet you can't wait...... :-)

Oh, and if you have any tips on interfacing then please leave a comment below. I'd love to hear your tips too.